Translated: Climbing Tech Tips 197 Author: Matt Samet compile: Zhang Qing
The trouble with the big-angle route is that once it falls off, you just swing out and it's hard to get back to where it was originally. What to do, drop it from the ground up? Too much energy. Try the following suggestions.
Do not use top rope protection
When the route is extroverted beyond 15 degrees, only the fool will try to use the top rope to practice the course. If you use the top rope, once you fall off, you will find yourself swinging in the air with the rope, no matter how hard or curse it will not help. It is best to use the method of vanguard climbing, with the middle point of protection as a boundary, to practice for a period of time. Don't be afraid to fall off. The fall on a steep route is the safest way to fall. Unless you deliberately use very tight ropes to protect your rope. In other cases, the result of the fall is just to shake in the air. There will be nothing at all. bump.
The protection of the rope left a certain degree of relaxation
If there is no danger of directly crashing into the ground while climbing, there should be some room for loosening of the protection rope. Otherwise, when you make a sudden upward move, the tighter rope may hinder your movement (above). In some cases, you may require a tighter rope to use a little bit of force (when the rope is above you), but this is only an aid to the practice. It cannot be used in formal climbing. It is also important to note that if the protection rope is too tight, there is little room for it to stretch, and when you fall off it will cause an ankle or body to hit the rock wall, especially if you run into a self-righteous Responsibly, it's even worse when you predict that you're detached and instinctively tighten your rope partner further (below).
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